Bogged Down Bows

Yikes!  Mid December and I’m only just getting around to posting my makes for Seamstress Erin’s Bow Neck Blouse Sewalong!  Both items were completed in November but it’s hard when your camera isn’t on speaking terms with your computer.  Fortunately they have recently made up and are working together again.

I’ve always like bow blouses but only have one store bought item so this was the kick in the butt I needed to make a version or two of my own.  Only one ended up being a true bow neck blouse, the second is more a clever play on the idea.  But both patterns came to be courtesy to the Big 4 which I haven’t sewn in a while.  Bring on undetermined but most likely excessive ease!

Almost a sailor look dress

First up I decided I needed a minidress version.  I went with McCall’s M6793 which gives you options for loose, pullover tops with a variety of necklines, sleeves and tunic options.  I went with a mashup of views A and B with A’s cap sleeves and B’s flounce which I cut several inches longer.  I started off bombarding my rayon challis with sizing to stiffen the fabric up and make it less wiggly when cutting and sewing especially the bias cut ties.

This took FOREVER to tie nicely

I spent more time than necessary trying to avoid handsewing by stitching the neck seam in the ditch to secure the ties.  This turned out so-so due to perfectly matching thread but didn’t look that great.  Eventually I gave up, ripped all this stitching out and resigned myself to sewing it by hand.  It turned out not being that bad since I did it while watching TV and it looks so much better.  Lesson learned: sometimes you can’t avoid handsewing so just do it and get it over with.  You’ll appreciate it when you’re done.

 

Looks really shapeless on the dressform

I ended up hacking 2” off the top and reattaching the flounce, it was just too drop waisted and looked awkward.  Loose and drop waisted are two silhouettes I don’t wear much so they make take a bit of getting used to – most of my clothes have a more defined waist.  The shorter skirt length definitely helps in making it look more modern.

 

Put a bow on it!

My next version is like the bow version of Portlandia’s “Put a bird on it” sketch.  Butterick B5817 is a fitted top with a big bow appliqued on front.  This was also made of challis – turquoise and white this time.  While stiffening this fabric up with sizing the nozzle got stuck on and wouldn’t stop spraying.  After a few comedic attempts to put the cap on, spray and move fabric and eventually tossing it in a bag so sizing wouldn’t get everywhere I quarantined it to the deck where for the next few hours I could hear it continuing to spray its heart out.  Luckily this top involved only a few pieces and seams so fiddliness was kept to a minimum.  Although during construction it looked like a hot mess with some massive sizing puddles dried on it.

Fake bows are always unperfectly tied

At first I thought I was so clever by sewing interfacing to the applique and then ironing it to the shirt to keep it in place.  But some of the interfacing kept showing and I wasn’t satisfied so I peeled it off and when with two pieces of white challis and used fabric glue to stick it to the turquoise.  I like the contrast of the white on the turquoise but wish the seam allowances didn’t show through so much.  As instructed I used contrast thread to topstitch the applique around the edges and to add some detail.

Contrast stitching

After putting both garments through a quick wash to remove all the sizing and a serious ironing session they were ready for me to try on and see how they really look.

Brrrrrr!

Right off the bat I realized I made a summer dress.  We’ve been suffering from below freezing temperatures lately.  And I don’t handle the cold well.

A floaty dress with Sorels?  Maybe not.

I’m not sure if I like the look with a cardigan (might just be this particular one), tights and boots or it’s just not a style I’m used to. 

 

Bows & polka dots?  Yes please.

Regardless I see myself wearing this more next spring and summer with these polka dotted shoes.

 

Distracted by pigeons that took over my deck

The top I’ll be able to wear now and when the weather warms up.  At first I made it sort of as a joke and an easy out but I ended up liking it more than I thought.  I like the massive oversized bow that will never need tying or fussing over throughout the day.  At the time I bought extra fabric and am looking forward to turning the rest into a dress although I haven’t settled on a pattern yet.

So that’s the story on my contributions to the Bow Neck Blouse sewalong.  It was fun and I appreciate Seamstress Erin taking the time to organize everything and put out a number of inspiration posts of bows on clothes throughout the decades.

Grunge Sureau with Bonus Sparkle

I swear this isn't actual Seattle formal!

First of all I’d like to point out that after finishing this dress I remembered that I used to have one very similar to it.  Except that one was a blue and light brown plaid printed knit.  Oh yeah, it was supposed to be a babydoll dress but since I’m short it just fit normal.  I had a friend with the exact same dress plus a several extra inches in height and it fit her like it should but it looked good on both of us.

After my Bleuet success I quickly snapped up a couple more Deer & Doe patterns including Robe Sureau.  Since the Grunge sewalong was happening and I couldn’t wait to bust out this pattern I figured it’d be a match made in Seattle fashion heaven.  Which naturally meant plaid flannel.

I love plaid!

 I lucked out with this plaid as its balanced which made cutting it out a bit easier while lining up the pattern pieces.  I had “Spinal Tap” on Tivo and turned it up to 11 while fussing over how I wanted the plaid to line up.  I cut the center inset on the bias to avoid it only matching partway and to add some visual interest.  I basted it to another piece cut along the grain to avoid it getting stretched out.  I totally forgot to think about where the diamonds would be placed but they ended up in the perfect location but more on the later.

Tip: Wear a slip to avoid flannel sticking to tights

 Construction was pretty straight forward although like usual I decided to sew the sleeves in flat – I’ll do just about anything to avoid setting in a sleeve.  Next time I’ll probably interface the facing, it doesn’t say to do it in the instructions but a looser fabric like flannel could benefit with some added structure.  I topstitched ¼” around the neckline to help stabilize it and now it mostly lies flat.

Obligatory awkward pose showing pattern matching

I pulled my walking foot out for the first time to help match up the plaid and loved how well it worked.  I will never use anything else to at least baste plaids or stripes together!  For a while now I’ve thought it would be a useful addition to my machine foot collection but wasn’t sure how much I would use it since I don’t quilt.  (Actually I’ve been meaning to try it out for a few years but garment sewing keeps getting in the way!)  I ended up getting a super cheapo generic version to try out since I wasn’t sure how much I would use it and they’re kinda pricey.  If my current one breaks I now know it’s worth replacing with a name-brand foot.  My plaid matching on the side seams turned out awesome if I do say so myself.  Even on the invisible zipper side.

 

More pattern matching

 I shortened the sleeves a bit using the plaid as my guide to get everything lined up.  I hunted through my button stash and wasn’t happy with the black or white ones that I found.  They both just looked “eh… ok” on the bodice but liked how some bronze ones looked despite being the wrong size.  So I wore the dress to Thanksgiving dinner sans buttons.

 

BTW: I sewed half this dress with navy thread and half with black... I think. All due to poor lighting and the fabric disguising almost all stitching.  Good thing I didn't need to rip any seams out - they're practically invisible.

4 diamonds + 4 buttons = perfect placement

Later on after the Black Friday shopping frenzy I found some bronze buttons in the correct size to add. This is when I realized that the plaid on the bias formed perfect diamonds that screamed to have a button in the middle of each.  So I didn’t even bother lining up the buttons with my simflex, I just eyeballed the center of the four diamonds and cheered that it suggested four buttons.  A few minutes later my dress was completely done.

 

Who says there's no sparkle to grunge?

I’m really happy with my finished dress.   It’s warm and cozy, honors my Seattle roots with a nod to French girl style.  It’s a little bit looser than I was thinking, but that’s most likely due to the flannel.  (I have a flannel Alma that fits looser than others made of more tightly woven fabric.)  As a bonus since the plaid includes navy, black and brown it goes with multiple colors of tights and boots.  I wore brown the first time around but pulled out my hologram Doc’s for this photo shoot.  For those days when you’re aiming for grunge formal.  (I totally had a friend borrow these for prom one year!)  I’m curious how Sureau will fit in a more stable fabric and already have other versions planned.

Bleuet: Shirtdress of my Dreams

After seeing so many gorgeous versions of Deer &Doe’s Bleuet around the Internet I finally got around to make one of my own.  And now I’m hooked – I’ve since cut out two more versions and expanded my Deer and Doe pattern collection.

 

Check out that Seattle sun!

 I’ve had this dark, lightweight denim in my stash for several months with the idea to make it into a shirtdress.  Despite having several options in my pattern collection, I couldn’t commit to one.  Until one afternoon when I discovered that Made Sewing Studio, my local source for indie patterns, now carried Deer & Doe.  Excited about the process of not having to wait for shipping I debated which pattern to start with before deciding Bleuet was the shirtdress of my dreams.

Surprise back bow

Initially I was a little concerned about the pattern being drafted for a C cup (which I’m not) but figured the princess seams would make it easy to adjust mid-construction.  I’m really glad I was too lazy to attempt any pattern alterations because I ended up not needing them.  ( Am I a C cup?...)  The length ended up being perfect too.

 

Understated French girl style

The directions tell you to topstitch the princess seams and I took the opportunity to topstitch ALL the seams.  And when working with denim what’s better than using denim topstitching thread?  Of course the best way to make sure it turns out nice and even is to use a denim needle and go SLOW.  Which means it took forever to topstitch those long princess seams but the outcome is worth it.

Bow closeup

Next time I will probably sew the sleeve bands with a .5” seam.  It’s not like they’re tight or anything, it’s just a closer fit than I’m used to.  After topstitching the bands on the sleeves the armhole seam looked a little plain so I topstitched those as well.  Which means the only seams I left alone are the shoulders.

Topstitched like my life depended on it

 

I used pearl snaps instead of buttons and this decision had nothing to do with the prospect of 10+ buttonholes.  Sometimes a girl just wants to pretend she’s the Hulk and rip her shirt(dress) off.  Plus any time I get to use a hammer on a sewing project is tons of fun!  I used my simflex to painlessly space the snaps and they all matched up perfectly. There's nothing worse than slightly off snaps or buttons.  Pearl snaps seemed like a good match for a casual denim shirtdress topstitched within an inch of it’s life.

Two snaps are cracked but are barely noticeable

The back was the teeniest bit tight but I doubt I’ll adjust the pattern for future versions.  I discovered this while doing my usual movement test – goofy dance moves.  I can raise the roof like a champ but fall short when attempting the YMCA.  That’s just fine by me since I rarely spell out words with my whole body and am willing to accept that I’ll need to wear something else if the urge strikes me.  And that’s a big IF.  But I can reach the tall shelves in my kitchen and give someone a hug so I think I’m good.

 

Raise the Roof: Pass

I was excited to be able to take photos outside on a sunny fall day while the leaves were still around.  Last Saturday we had a huge windstorm in Seattle that blew them all away and knocked out my power for 10+ hours.

YMCA: Fail

 

While planning this dress I realized it works for the Fabulous Frocks category of the Fall Essentials Sew Along.  This is my kind of sew along - one without any restrictions or daily To Do tasks. Sometimes all it takes to suck the creativity out of me is a formalized schedule and plan.  I much prefer to sew whatever catches my eye at the moment.

 

I can’t wait to finish my next two versions although it’s going a little bit slower since the fabrics are a bit sheer so I’m underlining everything.  In other words: I’m in love.  Deer and Doe is quickly claiming a place in my heart next to my beloved Sewaholic.  Just the other day I snapped up two more and immediately set about tracing them out which I never do.

Lake Chelan Central Park Hoodie

If you knit I think it’s almost required to make a Central Park Hoodie (CPH) at some point.  Naturally as I’ve taken up knitting in the past year I dutifully put it in my Ravelry queue and then went ahead and made one.  Now that it’s finally done I’m really glad I did.

Right off the bat the eagle eyed out there may notice that mine looks a little… wrong different than the small army of CPHs out there.  That’s because I completely spaced on how to knit and totally did it wrong – apparently I knitted into the back of the stitches.  My purling ability stayed the same resulting in nonstockinette stitch.

 

But like I remember my mom saying way before I learned to knit: if you’re consistent it’s not a mistake, it’s part of the design.  And I was very consistent.

I knitted this up with Cascade Yarn 220 Heather in the Lake Chelan colorway which is a bluish green with yellow flecks.  I liked using yarn from a local company (they’re located in Seattle) and have fond memories of vacationing on Lake Chelan as a kid.

There’s not much to say about this pattern that a thousand Ravelry members haven’t already.  I ended up knitting the body in one piece to try something new and avoid sewing up the side seams.

I waited to get some help from my mom picking up stitches for the hood and ribbing since I’ve never done it before.

I was looking forward to relearn how to properly knit before starting sweater #2 but wanted to wait until this one was finished.

I love these silver buttons I found during a ½ off sale.  I used the yarn separated into 2 ply to sew on the buttons using a long strand of yarn that is worked from button to button along where the stitches were picked up.  This technique is from Finishing School: AMaster Class for Knitters which includes tons of information on all sorts of finishes.  Not that the lack of buttons stopped me from wearing it.

Now that it’s officially sweater season here in Seattle this hoodie is warm and cozy and will get lots of wear. I’m really excited about finishing my first sweater and have already started on another.

Floral Origami Dress

 I can’t believe how long it’s been since I posted anything.  This is completely due to a lack of me taking photos.  And let's face it: a sewing blog is very, very dull without them.  However I have been sewing!



 This is Simplicity 1877, one of Leanne Marshall’s patterns, and I made version B with the gathered skirt.  I don’t wear a lot of florals but felt like expanding my sewing horizons and loved this lightweight linen I found at Jo-Ann’s.  I felt the colors would transition nicely from late summer into fall with tights and boots.  The pattern went together pretty easily although I complicated things by adding a full lining and then went completely mental and hemmed the skirt by hand.

Hidden pinked center seams

I prefer to line my dresses anyways, but I wasn’t thrilled with the center bodice seam remaining unfinished.  Plus my fabric was a bit sheer.  In order to add the lining I sacrificed the bias binding around the neck and sleeves.  Instead I under stitched and then top stitched ¼” around the edges to try and simulate the look.

Shoulder flounces before being tacked down



  The edges of the “V” in front aren’t perfect but I figured it was good enough since me and my cleavage have the best views and I’m counting on them distracting anyone looking to closely at my seams.

FYI: while this pattern is low cut, it’s not drafted to be quite this low.  When I went to sew my fabric and lining together I went ahead and used a standard 5/8” seam, completely forgetting that the bias binding finish means the edges wouldn’t be reduced at all until after I serged them.  Whoops!  This also meant the armhole was lowered as well but for the most part doesn’t reveal my bra. 

Crazy hair mustache

 Except in this photo where I realized I totally made a dress that matches my bra!

 I debated whether or not to add the shoulder flounces before deciding why not since I don’t have anything else like it in my closet.  Plus they reminded me of origami for some reason.

The skirt is pleated and topstitched in the center and gathered everywhere else.  To keep my lining simple I just used the skirt pieces and made it exactly the same other than shortening it a few inches.

The end result is a nice clean inside and added opaqueness.  Next time I make this dress I’ll raise the underarm slightly and take it in about ½” at the waist.  Although the design is pretty distinctive so that won’t be anytime too soon. 

I braved the cold to take these photos but I’m hoping for a warmish fall day to wear it without tights.  I think with my brown leather jacket, tights and boots it’ll be perfect to wear out while the leaves are changing colors.  I doubt it’ll stay in the rotation throughout winter so I plan on wearing it while I can!

A Little Red Dress

Sometimes you just need a bright red dress.  The LBD has the popular vote and the Little White Dress puts up a good fight in summer, but it's hard to ignore the Little Red Dress.  This is McCall’s M6754, released this summer with a cute tank flared dress or peplum top with sleeved options for the winter.  Made for knits, I decided to try it out in tango red poly/rayon blend ponte.   With a fun color name and a just about circle skirt it feels perfect for dancing.  (And yes, it is this bright red in person!)  I probably should’ve picked a stretcher knit but I was feeling like a rebel and loved the feel and color of the fabric.  It turned out as there’s enough stretch for me to shimmy into it.

 

With only a few pieces to the pattern it was easy to cut out, especially using a rotary cutter.  Construction was pretty easy too and I used my serger on the back and side seams.  The only problem I had was when I serged the bodice to the skirt it resulted in some pulling, despite it not being there when I basted it together.  A belt covers is up pretty much but I may still go back and try and fix it.  Depends if I get in a “seamripping a serged seam” kind of mood or not.  (Probably not)

 I really like how it turned out.  At first I was worried how low the back was until I tried it on and happily discovered I could wear a regular bra without it peeking out.  Things are so much more wearable if I don’t have to worry about wearing special underwear with it!

 

 

 The neck and arm holes were finished with a narrow hem and then topstitched by ballpoint twin needle.  This gives them a nice stretchy and secure seam with the stitching close to the edge.  I figured stitching so close to the edge might look a little weird on the skirt hem so I just serged the edge before pressing it up 5/8”.  The twin stitching is about ½’’ from the edge and took forever!  My machine handles the twin needle best at a slower speed and a circle skirt has a lot of hem to stitch.  Definitely worth the time to avoid ripping it out or a wonky hem.

 

I have plans to make winter versions with sleeves for both a dress and peplum top.  McCall's rated this pattern as easy and it definitely is.  With some focus I could easily whip this up in an afternoon from cutting out to hemming.  It's a simple, comfortable dress for summer that can easily be dressed up or down.  Plus it'll transition nicely into fall with boots and a sweater.  That's my kind of dress!

 

BTW: These photos looked fine on the camera but on the computer I suddenly turned into Casper the ghost.  I may be pale, but not glow in the dark and any adjustments turned me various shades of Oompa Loompa.  But I couldn't be bothered to retake them!

"Hello baby" Chantilly

Whew!  I finally finished the dress I started before getting distracted by my flamingo cross stitch project.  (Which is complete as well.)  This is Colette Pattern’s Chantilly and came together really quickly despite all the interruptions.  Colette drafts for a C cup which I’m not, but figured all the bust gathering wouldn’t require any altering.  (Plus Tasia of Sewaholic has made a couple adorable versions and the enhanced bustiness didn’t look excessive.)  The only alteration I made was to take in the sides about an inch or so for a closer fit.  Next time I will lower the armhole slightly, it feels a teensy bit high after removing so much excess fabric and adjust where the gathering starts on the side.  But I’m already thinking up my next version.

 

I love this polka dot lawn, it’s part of the Sew Lisette fabric line at Jo-Ann’s.  It’s lined in white cotton with the exception of the neck facing which I made out of self-fabric to avoid any white showing.  I thought about a blue or green lining but couldn’t a. find any that matched and b. like how the white intensifies the print.  I’m one of those people who aren’t that into pockets in skirts (I just rarely use them!) but had never put a pocket in a zippered side seam and wanted to try it out.

 

This dress took forever to hem!  It has a six panel gored skirt that required a lot of gathering at the waist but it didn’t sink in until hemming time.  I ran a quick 5/8” basting stitch around the edge to make turning it up and ironing quicker and more even.  Machine hemming went easily but still took a lot of turning and checking if the end was near!  I had one nervous moment when I hung it up and worried if the lining was showing.  Luckily it was just on the hanger weird and didn’t require any seam ripping and rehemming.

 

It was perfect for a sunny Saturday and a BBQ at some friends’ home.  I did have a couple Marilyn moments when the wind caught it and I had to quickly pull it down, but nothing too major.  It’s a fun skirt to twirl in when I can control the flyaway action.

BTW I’ve had “Chantilly Lace” by the Big Bopper stuck in my head all day and most of the time spent making this dress.

 

In other news I’m attending the New York Fashion Academy where I’ll earn a certificate in Fashion Design & Construction.  I applied and was accepted the end of June for the summer quarter which started last week.  I’m really excited about the prospect of turning my obsession hobby into a career and as a bonus the school is located really close to me.  It’s very hands on so I’ve been busy drawing, draping and sewing already.  I may post some projects along the way.  I just hope I continue to have time for some personal sewing as well!