Since its spring I thought short sleeves and a fuller
skirt would be more seasonally appropriate. To increase the skirt fullness all
I did lay the skirt pattern piece on my massive roll of butcher paper, trace
off the side edge and use the width of the paper.
My biggest adjustments were to the bodice. I finally wised up and raised the armsyce ¼
inch. On both my Bleuets they’ve felt a
bit low and despite not noticing it as much on Sureau #1 I think that was more
a matter of flannel having some give. I
went with ¼ inch to avoid over correcting and after wearing it feels pretty
good. I also adjusted the sleeves the
same amount in addition to shortening them.
Oh, and I took a ½ inch out of the bodice center back. Sometimes tiny adjustments like these make
all the difference.
Originally I intended to line the dress due to the
sheerness of the cotton lawn and actually cut the pieces out before deciding
not to. I used a white cotton but the
more I handled it the more I became it was too thick compared to the lightness
of the lawn. It was in the evening and
all the fabric stores where closed and I wasn’t sure I’d be able to find the
correct weight so I decided to skip it. I
really, really didn’t want to wait until the next morning and after standing in
front of the mirror holding up the fabric I felt it was just opaque enough.
I did add a few extra steps which I felt added up to a
better dress. I stay stitched the
neckline and fused very, lightweight interfacing to the facing. The neckline on
my flannel version didn’t sit completely flat until I went back and sandwiched
some fusible tape between the dress and facing.
I also under stitched the neckline out of habit. I felt the placket needed the extra
stabilization so I interfaced it in addition to topstitching it. The only downside to this is that the fabric
is sheer enough that you can tell what was interfaced while the dress is on my dress
form. But I think it’s less noticeable when
I’m wearing the dress.
Like usual I set my sleeves in flat and tried it on
before sewing up the side seams to determine what I wanted my final sleeve
length to be. With a few quick slices of
my rotary cutter (after carefully lining up my clear plastic ruler) and I was
good. Oh yeah, I also added two thin
strips of interfacing along the side where the zipper would be inserted. This helped the invisible zipper go in almost
perfectly. I wasn’t convinced it was
worth going back and trying to fix something off less than 1/16”.
I started off this post saying how much I love this dress
and I really do. Like it’s the type of
garment I want to mentally think of who I’m going to see in a day so I can keep
wearing it without it being too obvious.
Sadly this scheme is ruined by Me Made May and daily outfit photos. But once June rolls along all bets are off! Actually, by the end of writing this post I’ve
decided that as soon as I find appropriate lining (#3 will be lined) I will let
it skip ahead to the top of my “to sew” list.